February, 2007
On February 7th I left NYC for and extended stay in the Northeast of Brazil. I spent the first 3 weeks living and playing with Scott Kettner and the members of Nation Beat. We had gigs on big stages including Porto Musical and Carnaval Recife. Click here to see a very cool video performance from Brazil.
The house we rented in Olinda was like a Corona commercial. Just to sit on the front porch and watch the waves roll in made cold NYC seem like a far away dream.
On the first day we went into the Favela to visit with the members of Estrella Brillante. There we took a look at the amazing costumes and shared some music with some young students.
Back at our house we were treated to daily meals prepared by our chef, Juka. The food in Brazil is very heavy on the meat, with rice and beans served with every meal. Good thing I love rice and beans.
I truly had an amazing time performing with Nation Beat. I love Scott’s passion for this music and he has assembled a truly wonderful group of people. It was a true pleasure to spend time with Mike, Rafa, Skye, Lilliana, Racha, Duda, and the other guest artists and performers that we worked with. On top of that, there are few things more incredible in this world than laying down some wailing guitar over 10+ baddassssss drummers!!!!
Once Carnaval officially started, Scotts predictions came true and the streets were flooded with people. Nearly to the point of immobility. Here is just a small taste of the scene in Olinda. I haven’t seen partytime like this since New Orleans!
In Recife Antigo (one of my new favorite places in the world) the scene was slightly more controled, but equally cathartic. Alegria, Alegria, Alegria…One of my most memorable moments came on the Monday before fat Tuesday. I saw Gal Costa, danced my ass off to the incredible Mono Bloco, and watched the sun come up to the sounds of Ciranda as hundreds swayed gently in its circular dance.
I had my first exposure to Maracatu Rural at Mestro Saluciano’s house at the Casa de Rebecca in Olinda. This was another mind blowing afternoon, filled with insights and new understandings. Having been exposed to this music through Cyro, Scott, and many others in NYC it was really something special to see in context, in its home, and played by the musicians that live it’s culture.
We sat in the sun and watched the many costumes and sounds parade in and out of the center square.
This afternoon was filled with strange and charming characters.
I spent my last night of Carnaval with one of my favorite MPB artists, Tom Ze. He reminded me so much of Cyro, with his eccentricities and creativity. I loved that he seemed to be sharing the stage with his best friends, a group that has been making music together for years, and finding unique and creative ways to do so.
Although Carnaval was winding down, the city was still filled with opportunities to learn more culture. Here we are spending the afternoon at the Casa de Coco, learning the dance steps.
It was amazing to see the dancers work the wooden shoes on the marble floor. Powerfully rhythmic, and similar to tap dancing, I thought that Chikako would love this.
Soon the party moved to the sidewalk where we played Coco and learned from the locals. These guys are ridiculous pandeiro players.
Now with most of the guys from Nation Beat gone, I spent time with Tyler and many of our new friends including Chris, Taty, and Danilo! Somos Locos, Muintos Locos!!!
My good friend Liza luckily has an extra room at her house and after our Olinda rental had expired she offered to host me and Tyler.
I decided to extend my stay in Brazil for another couple of weeks after meeting a great new friend and owner of a Jazz club called Mingus. This was a place like no other in Recife, and there, Nicolau featured me in a series of solo guitar performances.
The shows were a great success. The audiences seemed to especially enjoy the mixtures of American and Brazilian elements in my music. And and as I suspected, even the Brazilians love a good Appalachian fiddle tune! I was recieved with open arms, featured in the local papers, and on the huge brazilian television station, Globo. Here I am after a show with Liza and her other house guest Marina.
My extended stay was a blessing in other ways. I felt so at ease in Brazil, inspired, and productive. I wrote music everyday and spent my afternoons singing new songs on the beach.
Of course, being on the beach with an instrument does invite spectators and I did have to give the occasional guitar lesson. But, I never mind sharing music.
Now, with my new tan, new perspectives, and new energy, It’s back to business NYC. Lets do this!!! MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC. Thanks for checking in with me.
Onward and Upward,
Clay
***Special Thanks to Lena Machado and Giovani Papaleo, two great new friends who went out of their way to help me connect with the right people in Recife. Your kindness and hospitality are greatly appreciated.***
