TRIO IN RIO…JOAO, CLAY, AND MARCOS.
Oct. 31st
Tonight I was at Boom with Ferenc and a great bassist named Alan Hampton. Alan just returned from L.A. where he spent the last 2 years as a member of the Monk Institute Band. He sounded great and we had a fun gig.
Oct. 30th
Today I had a chance to relax, clean the house and do some laundry. It was great.
Oct. 29th
The gig at Satalla was fun. Tyler came by, and the streets were filled with costumed crazies.
Oct. 28th
I landed in NYC early in the AM, made it home and took a little nap. I had a rehearsal with Brilho de Luz Band to prepare for a gig tomorrow night @ Satalla.
Oct. 27th
RIO BABY!
I packed my things and ran down the street to find a card, a gift, a flower, anything to show my appreciation to my hosts. The last 10 days have been absolutely amazing and much thanks to the kindness and hospitality of Rita and Junior. It was such a pleasure and gift to stay in their home. I found a nice card, had trouble finding out exactly what it said, but had a feeling that it was appropriate. I said my goodbyes, made some calls, and hopped in a taxi. The airport, still full of beautiful cariocas, made me even more sad. That aside, I feel that this is a beautiful beginning to a long love affair with a unique and inspiring place.
Oct. 26th
MARIO AND ME
Great meal this morning as always. I’m starting to get used to this and its starting to scare me. I don’t want to leave and I really don’t have to, but I know I will. So, on to Botafugo to buy a Pandiero from Scott Finer and meet with Mario Toledo. The pandiero is gorgeous and sounds great, thanks Scott. Mario and I took a bus to Corcavado, where we caught a train to the top of the mountain. On the way Mario gave me the abridged version of his life story, including some hillarious stories about Cyro. At the top we enjoyed the incredible view and took some great photos. Mario is really into jazz guitar these days and had lots of questions for me on the way down. He wanted to know all about harmony and lines and how to voice lead the changes. We went back to his studio and I shared some information with him for the next hour or so. He got really excited about the stuff and seemed very inspired. It was great to return the favor, as earlier in the week I had the same experience with a great local guitiarist Ze Paulo Becker. Ze showed me all that I need to get my right had together for Brazilian music, instructional book included. So after I left Mario I headed home to figure out what to do with my last night in Rio. I called some new friends and fortunately Joao (bassist) invited me to his birthday party at his house. I took a cab and was welcomed for the last night by a home full of cariocas. I played with another great guitarist, made new friends, and we had a little dance party. It was a great night that ended too soon, but finally I took a car home and prepared to say goodbye (for now).
HOUSE PARTY
Oct. 25th
GUILHERME
Another day in Ipanema, but this time on a mission. I was in pursuit of the Capeoira pants that I saw on Sunday afternoon. I found the apartment, but my first ring was unsuccessful. I decided to walk along the beach and enjoy my favorite new drink, acai. This is a smoothie type beverage made from a local fruit, and with a little granolo and guarna it’s incredible. After a little time on the beach watching the surf and the thongs, my second ring was a winner. She showed me in and without a word we dealt in britches. I bought 2 pairs, green and red, and look forward to using them in the BTD arena of life. Shopping done, I prepared for another gig at the Esch Cafe. Tonight I was invited to perform with my host and friend Guilherme in duo. We settled on some familiar tunes and had a great couple of sets early in the night. It is such good fortune that has led me to this guy and it was a pleasure to get to know him a little better. It was great to make music with him and I know we will remain friends. We hung there at Esch, enjoyed some amazing seafood, some beers. There I was approched by a man who really enjoyed the set. He wanted to ask some questions about my playing. As it turns out, this was Mario Toledo, an old friend of Cyro and other Brazilians from NYC where he lived for 12 years. I showed him that I had been given his number but had yet to call him. It was a funny coincedence and we agreed to meet tomorrow.
Oct. 24th
CARIOCA DE GEMA
After a great home cooked lunch, I made my way to Botafugo to meet my friend Scott Finer. Scott is a NYC transplant, living in Rio for the past 5 years. He is a converted jazz guitarist and now plays pandiero full time. I met him through his great website, (www.pandiero.com). I spent some time at his place, checking out pandieros and listening to cuts from his new cd. He gave me some directions on where to find the music stores and lead me to the train. I took the metro to the carioca stop and was pleased to find a street full of music shops. I check some prices and looked around. At the last minute I purchased a new cavaquinho, an instructional book, and a fife flute for my friend Itai. Since I was already so close to some great music, I decided to walk over to a club I was told is happening on Monday nights. I was lead to “Carioca de Gema” by one of the young employees of the music store (people in Rio are just plain nice). There, with some time to kill, I watched as women of the night took men of many disciplines in and out of a run down motel. This is another part of the very dark side of Rio, that also includes countless street children and violence. Once inside the club, all traces of darkness disappeared and the samba band brought the house to the dance floor. This was the first time I felt that I was among tourists, but I didn’t mind at all and I had a great time. I enjoyed meeting people from Israel, Scotland, and Chile. I danced until the last set was complete and caught a cab home. A night out in Rio, including dinner, 3 drinks, cover charge, and a cab home, all under $30 US. I love this place.
Oct. 23rd
MY COMPLIMENTS TO THE CHEF
I took a long walk today from one end of Leblon to the other end of Ipanema. I stood on the huge rocks above the water and enjoyed the amazing view. On my way back I stopped at a street fair. There, I found some amazing capoiera pants like I’ve been looking for. As I had been advised, I didn’t walk aroung with enough cash to buy the pants. So in our mimed conversation, the lady gave me her home address and told me to stop by next week. So on to the next stop, I planned to hear a choro group at the Kiosks in Lagoa. Last night I made new friend, the amazing saxophonist Daniella Spielmann (www.daniellaspielmann.com). She has a regular gig on Sundays and tonight was no exception. There I met the amazing guitarist Bilinho Teixeira. Billy plays chorino incredibly well and is an example of where I would like to take my playing in this style. The group was a trio of drums, guitar, and soprano and the music was incredibly tight and grooving. These musicians have obviously played together for many years and their command of this style was breath taking. Afterwards I enjoyed getting to know the musicians and their friends a little better and caught a ride back to my room.
Oct. 22nd
JOAO
Junior and I met some of his friends on Ipanema Beach. Walking along the pier I recognized a guy from the city. I passed him but decided to run back and say hello. My friend Patrick, whom I’d met at Cafe Moto in Brooklyn, is now a member of Wilco and was in Rio for the huge “Tim Festival.” This festival is why I was sitting next to the Strokes on my plane. It also featured Wayne Shorter, Elvis Costello, and a host of others. Unfortuneately it was also completely sold out. Pat and I exchanged info and he said he would try to get me into Tim. It was really great to run into someone from Brooklyn and it made the world seem like an even smaller place. Later I met Junior and friends to watch the big local soccer game at a local bar. The game was great with a 2 – 1 score and the apparent biggest local rivalry. As one carioca put it, “we hate each other.” From there I went home to prepare for my gig. I was picked up by the bassist, Joao. We arrived at the Esch Cafe to meet Guilherme and our drummer for the night Marcos. With everything set up and the people filing in, we made a set list and hit the bandstand. The guys played great and the audience was engaged. We had a packed house and everyone let us know how much they enjoyed the music, even the solos. It was a great set. I sold many CDs, and was paid many flattering complements. Best of all, the club owner, Edgar, really loved it and extended an open invitation for future trips to Rio. This is always good news and I hope to return as often as possible. After another great set, we sat down for an amazing fish dinner. Late night, Joao and I rode to Lapa and back to Demacraticos to meet some of his friends. We stayed until dawn, when I was absolutely exhausted. With a full day behind me, I rested my head in Lagoa, content and satisfied.
Oct. 21st
RUN AND JUMP
Today I woke up a bit late, but still managed to have an incredible day with the help and good graces of Cyro’s son Pablo. On the most beautiful day of my entire trip, Pablo took me from Lagoa and put me in the clouds…literally. We drove to the edge of the beach where we met with Alpine, a hangliding expert and my personal condor for the day. I signed all of the neccesary paperwork, freeing anyone from any resposibility for my death and within the hour I was jumping off the side of a mountain in a hang-glider. Apparently it was my lucky day, as conditions were perfect for flying. In the air, I would look at Alpine and feel more and more secure. There, this man actually looked like a bird, cocking his head back and scanning the horizions with his glance. In these conditions we were able to ride the winds high above the mountains and the birds. We soared from one end of the city to the other and enjoyed the view of the birds and the other humans brave enough to defy gravity and nature. 30 minutes later I was more than ready to resume my natural place on planet earth. After a 40 minute flight we placed 4 legs and our wings firmly on the ground. The activities of the previous night were fast on my trail, but the initial freedom of flight was well worth the temporary vertigo. Still beaming from my experience I came back to Lagoa with even more energy than usual. My hosts called me crazy and left me to Gustavo for the night. The two of us met with another of his friends and went to a dance club in Ipanema called melt. The DJ mixed MPB with American Hip Hop and the club was filled with things to see.
MY BRAZILIAN BROTHERS, BERNARDO AND GUSTAVO
Oct. 20th
DEMOCRATICOS
Today it was more of the same, with an incredible home cooked meal at the top of the agenda. I took another walk to Ipanema and this time walked all along the beach. I also spent some time in the amazing shops that strech across the main streets parallel to the beach. I bought some havaianas for my friends and made my way back to Lagoa. There, I met Junior, Gustavo, and their German friend Christian. We drove to a local hang where a crowd of people gather on Thursdays to drink a beer and start their night. I’m finding that plenty of people speak a little english and those that don’t still smile and make some effort to communicate, even if they have to humor my poor portugese. Soon the time came to head up to Lapa. There we stepped into Demacraticos, a local venue and dance hall. The space was amazing with grand ceilings, windows, and arches. It was also full of musical people. We spent most of the night near the front of the stage, where we made friends with some cariocas and enjoyed the phenomenal band. The people embraced the music with such life and energy that I felt immediately at home. From then, until the wee hours of the morning, my cup was never empty and my feet were always moving. This was one of the highlights of my trip and a welcome to Rio that I will never forget. I felt at home, at peace, and in love.
Oct. 19th
VIEW FROM WHERE I STAYED IN LAGOA
After another ridiculously amazing home cooked meal by live in chef, Elisa, I took a walk from Lagoa to Ipanema. The weather was a bit overcast, but I avoided any heavy rain. I love the way the beach, the mountains and the city all coexist together. The scenery is lovely and the feel of the city is laid back and inviting. Of couse I was cautious, but the more I walked the more comfortable I became. I had prepared myself for worse and was suprised at how peaceful things seemed. Back at the apartment I met with Junior and his friend Gustavo. They took me to a bonafided Brazilian Sports Bar, where we drank great beers, watched soccer, and enjoyed some local cuisine. We took the car from Ipanema to Leblon, to Capacabana, and back. All the while checking in at different spots to get a feel for the night. After a final stop at a techno fueled meat locker, we decided to save our energy for the samba party in Lapa tomorrow night.
Oct. 18th
RITA AND JUNIOR
I was met at the Rio de Janiero International airport by a man quietly holding a sign bearing my name. We exchanged greetings, but since George doesn’t speak any English it was a fairly quiet ride towards Lagoa. There, we were greeted by Junior, the 21 year old son of my host family. Junior spent his formative years in American school and speaks perfect English. He welcomed me, took me up to their gorgeous 4th floor apartment, introduced me to Rita (his mother), and showed me to my room. The space was pleasant, pleasing, and plenty. I quickly made myself at home by enjoying an incredible home cooked meal in the dining room while getting to know Rita. They have an amazing home in a beutiful and central area of Rio. Their walls are filled with amazing artwork and the kitchen is always in use. After a quick nap, I enjoyed some drinks and another meal with Junior and Rita, before Junior agreed to drive us down to the Esch Cafe, where I was scheduled to perform on the 22nd. There we met Guilherme Vienna (saxophonist and booking agent). We enjoyed a few tunes from his duo, sat for a quick chat, then walked up the street where he introduced us to some other musicians. Shortly after, Guilherme, his girlfriend, Junior, and I took a car across town to Lapa (home of live music in Rio). There, we stepped into the Rio Scenarium and for the next few hours enjoyed a fantastic samba band. It was an amazing first day in Rio that gave me a great optimism about the things to come.
Oct. 17th
OK, this is it. I’m flying out for Brazil tonight at 10pm. I’m very exited about the trip and feel good about the contacts that I’ve managed to collect. I might not write here until I get back, but I will definately keep a play by play and fill you in when I return. Wish me luck, and all the best to you as well.
Oct. 16th
Back in NYC trying to catch up on some sleep, I got a call to for a BTD meeting in DUMBO. We were discussing the development of our educational programs inside BTD. There is a lot of work to do and I need to do some thinking about my contribution. Cyro would like for Brian and I to make some arrangments of his tunes to possibly be played by School Bands big and small. This seems like a promising possibility. I would also like to develop my own class/workshop that can be tied into the BTD experience. We had a great Brainstorming session and now I need to brainstorm some more. It’s really great to have these meetings and to be involved with the project. I have no doubt that we can realize our goals.
Oct. 15th
I had a great afternoon on Mt. Pleasant at the Franke’s new Charleston home. I spent most of it on the porch practicing and preparing for the ceremony. On the beach I was joined by an old friend Mark, who played a Glockenspiel part that I’d written. The ceremony was beautiful, cheezy dialogue and all. I even saw a few tears fall from Marie’s eyes. It was great. Downtown at the reception, I played solo for about and hour. We ate an incredible 5 course meal and danced the night away. Without much choice, I napped for about an hour before heading to the airport at 5am.
Oct. 14th
Woke up to a great breakfast with Jay, his wife Stacy, and his parents. I enjoyed a little more Carl Sagen then caught a ride downtown to rendevous with Marie. We had the dress rehearsal for the wedding on Folly Beach where we were nearly eaten alive by mosquitos. From there we went to a great Oyster Roast on the Marsh, hosted by Frank’s sister Angie. Still the evening rolled on with another trip downtown and a concert at Redux Studios. Bill Carson was playing with his Checkered Past and it was great to see lots of friends.
Oct. 13th
I arrived in Charleston at noon and made my usual stop at Clara’s. The weather was, as usual, absolutely incredible. I walked around downtown with my headphones on and spent some time playing guitar in Marion Square Park with my friend David. I sat in with Quentin, Kevin, and Tommy Gill at Coast before doing a solo set at the Pour House on James Island. There, I met up with Jay Clifford and we caught up at his beautiful house on John’s Island. The night ended with a Carl Sagen video and thoughts of the “big picture.”
Oct. 12
Marie got me hanging out with her in Paris time. We woke up at 5am and were chilling out around the house. She came home for a few hours and left right again. This time for Charleston. I’ll be following her tomorrow. I got my Visa from the Consulate General of Brazil and worked on my set for tomorrow night. This percussion thing is heavy. I have a long way to go with this stuff and I’m enjoying the process.
Oct. 11th
I ran up to the Embassy this morning and turned in all the paperwork for my Visa. Later, I rehearsed again with Brilho de Luz. Today included Itai and Stacy Dillard. It was great to see and hear these guys as always. We played music for a couple of hours and then Binho cooked us up some chiken. Tonight Marie came home and it was great to see her. We went to bed early tonight.
Oct. 10th
I just realized that I have to get a Visa for Brazil and that the Embassy is closed today (Columbus Day). I met with Nate, Scott, and Solomon and worked on a couple of new tunes for the Agora Latin Jazz Quartet. This group really has a lot of potential. So far Nate and I have brought in a few tunes and we are really building up a nice repertoire of originals. It’s so great to have this opportunity to work on a project like this, to rehearse, and to know that the music is going to be realized in some special places. Tonight I was at Boom with Tal and Ferenc. As always, we had a great time. Those guys are the shit!
Oct. 9th
We’re getting a little rain here in NYC and it’s supposed to stay this way for days. Being that the scooter is my primary means of transportation, when it rains I get wet. So, wet as I was, I was luckily able to avoid the brunt of the storm between the hours of 9 and Midnight while I played my solo sets at Anyway Cafe.
Oct. 8th
I watched an interesting documentary (bus 174) about a bus hijacking in Rio that happened in 2000. The 4 hour negotiation was caught on tape by news crews and the film exposed many of the complexities of life in Rio. Tonight I went to Dizzy’s Club Coca Cola for the first time. It is really stunning what Wynton Marsalis has done. To have raised all of the money to create this really incredible space dedicated to jazz music. There is definately a corporate transparency to the space, but I think its an incredibly admirable acheivement none the less. Thanks to Delbert Felix for having me as his guest. The band sounded great, no matter how painfully straight ahead, and I was especially impressed with Cyrus Chestnut’s hard swinging piano playing.
Oct. 7th
Tyler and Itai had a house warming party tonight. The Israeli – South Carolina connection represented from Greenpoint. We ate (pork sholder, salad, potatoes, and tirimasu), we drank (beer, wine, liquor), we smoked (flavored tobacco from a hooka, and some other stuff), and we danced (tribe called quest, mos def, mystical, jay z). I took a car home.
Oct. 6th
We had a good night at MOTO. Itai was with me and I brought all of my electronic friends to the gig. I have a solo gig coming up in Charleston and really want to work on some elements of my percussion playing and looping. It was cool to see my friend Nathan from Charleston. Also, De and I shot a couple of games of pool at the Alligator Lounge late night.
Oct. 5th
I didn’t leave Brooklyn tonight and only left the house for an hour or so. I met my friend Jennifer Odell for a beer at the Gate, rented a “Life Aquatic” and headed home. I even got into some practicing late night and for the first time ever had my downstairs neighbor ring my door. Apparently I was getting a little carried away with my volume. I know your not reading this, but sorry neighbor.
Oct. 4th
I set out tonight to see Cyro perform at The Stone in a tribute to Don Cherry. The guys, including Brian, Tim, and Peter Apfelbaum sounded great. I especially liked the sounds of the clay drums that Cyro played late in the set. From there I met Tyler and we again redevous with Les. This time we lured him downtown and hung out at NUBLU for a while. Les loved the place and said it almost made him want to move to NYC. The sounds of laptops singing from the bandstand really speak to him.
Oct. 3rd
At Boom tonight I played trio with Jerome Sabbagh and Tal Ronen. We had a great time. I especially love Jerome’s beautiful sound and expressive playing. Tonight, Tyler and I went uptown to meet Les Hall for some drinks. Les is rehearsing with Trey Anastasio for an upcoming tour, including two dates opening for the Rolling Stones. Les, your my fucking hero! Again, my failed attempts to match my brother’s pace reminded me to set my own tonight. Late as it was, I was still in good shape to drive the scooter across the Manhattan Bridge.
Oct. 2nd
We met Taylor, Kristen, and Bentley for brunch this afternoon. Marie left for Paris straight from the restaurant. I came home and kept up the practicing and later made my gig at Anyway Cafe.
Oct. 1st
Marie and I enjoyed a nice slow Saturday morning. We had brunch at Dizzys and she went off to ASFOUR to prepare for their trip to Paris. I spent some time working on my Chorino comping and we got together again later in the night.













